Driving on the highway, my car will suddenly lose power momentarily and the speed drop 3-5 mph. My accelerator is unresponsive. Then the car will accelerate quickly with a jerk to accelerate to the set speed. May occur on level ground but often occurs at the bottom of a hill. I have no control during this loss of power.

While driving on the highway, after about 45 minutes, the electric vehicle goes into Turtle power-limited mode. The vehicle instantly reduces in speed from 70mph to as low as 35 - 45 mph. There are no warning lights or sounds. If you immediately stop the car and let it sit, it will work again temporarily but after 30 - 40 more min or less of driving, it will again go into turtle mode. Additionally, acceleration is non-existent when its power is limited, inhibiting the ability to safely drive as required to pull over or across intersections. This has been a constant event occurring multiple times and each time the vehicle has been on a freeway or highway. The dealer applied the repairs in the photo supplied, but they did not work.

I took possession of my vehicle 1/12/23 and charged it successfully in my garage with my level 2 charger at 48A per Hyundai's specifications until May 19, 2023. Charging aborted prematurely on that date due to overheating of the charging port. Starting May 20, 2023 I lowered the charging rate in my level 2 charger to 40A despite Hyundai's stated specifications that 48A was supported. I also started tracking my charging with an OBD2 scanner and noted the AC Inlet 1 port temperatures. From 6/26/23 to 7/25/23 as summer temperatures in my garage here in NJ from 75 to 84, peak port temperatures reached 226 to 237 degrees but charging completed. On 7/28/23 with a garage temperature of 86, port temperature reached 239 and charging aborted again. I then had to lower the charging rate to 36A. This is lengthening my charging times and is not consistent with Hyundai specifications when I purchased the car. I am concerned I will have to continue lowering the charging rate to continue operating the vehicle. These high temperatures may also be dangerous. Hyundai so far has merely issued a Technical Service Bulletin 23-EV-003H that does not fix or replace the inadequate part(s), it merely slows down charging inconsistent with their specifications. This is not acceptable and as a safety issue NHTSA should require Hyundai to recall and replace the insufficiently performing part(s). My car is available for inspection. This overheating and lengthening charging time is a safety issue. The vehicle has not been inspected by the manufacturer or local dealer. There were no warnings of these occurrences. Charging simply halts when it exceeds 237 degrees Fahrenheit for my 2023 model.

Our car repeatedly fails to complete charging using Level 2 chargers at 48-amps. The car sends an overheating error, stops charging and then starts charging again later (presumably after it has cooled down). Sometimes is fails to restart charging completely. This makes it impossible to get a fast, reliable Level 2 charge in a timely manner. We get a text to our cell phones alerting us that charging has stopped due to overheating. We have notified our dealer and they are offering a software patch from Hyundai that simply slows the charge amperage to 28-amps when an overheating error occurs rather than offering a hardware solution that allows for full 48-amp Level 2 charging as the car is supposed to be capable of.

Level 2 Charging intermittently shuts off or is throttled back to very low charging rates. THis results in car not being charged enough to be used. Hyundai advertises charging rates of 10 KW, but charging is either throttled back to 5 KG or shut when charging at 48 AMps. . Hyundai claims to know of this problem where some internal components of car overheat.

Charger does not charge

When driving down the road, road debris and water blind the back windshield. There is no wiper and the design does not clear off the back windshield, causing you not to be able to see out the back windshield. This is causing a safety issue with the vehicle, and I almost had an accident because of it. Additionally, the side mirrors will not clear off water, causing them not to be able to use during rain storms. This vehicle is not safe as is. Hyundai has stated it is a design defect and they won’t do anything about it, per the corp office and the dealership, Jenkins Hyundai in Ocala, Fl

After owning and driving the 2023 Ioniq 5 for about 4 months, the car was driven from Massachusetts to Arizona. After driving across the county at 75 mph about 50 min on cruse control the car began to lurch, the speed would drop about 3 mph below the cruse control set point, then accelerate to a mile faster than the set point and then settle down to the set point. This would happen multiple times during the next 100 miles before stopping to charge. After charging and again on cruse control at 75 mph or so, the lurching would begin again. After the lurching started, the power display indicated the front motor on this dual motor vehicle was doing all the work to drive the car, and the rear motor was no longer functioning. Later it was confirmed that the rear EOP (electric oil pump) which cools the rear motor was not functioning at all. As a result the rear motor would increase to more than 170 degrees F and stop operating. No DTC was stored for the EOP Actual Speed of zero (despite an EOP Command Speed for 800-3000 rpms). No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Temperature overheat. No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Actual Torque of zero when it was commanded for something more. Fortunately the Hyundai Ioniq 5 did command the front motor to take over even though the rear motor was no longer functional, so the car was able to maintain speed most of the time. However, the car is normally 325 hp with both motors. Accelerating with only the 95hp front motor on a heavy car was very slow, both in traffic and on the highway. The lack of performance could easily surprise an unsuspecting driver resulting in a collision or worse. I know of at least 5 owners who have experienced this issue. In each case Hyundai has been slow at best and refused to repair at worst. The issue is without DTC but can none the less be easily diagnosed by observing the ODB EOP Actual Speed (when the car is driven) will be zero with an EOP Command Speed >0 .

When driving in I Pedal mode (which is the one-pedal mode), the brake lights do not light up when decelerating, and it almost caused us to be rear-ended yesterday. Drivers pull aside me and tell me my brake lights don't properly come on when I slow down. Apparently this defect was on the national news several months ago and Hyundai promised a software fix by mid-July. I was just at the Carlsbad, CA Hyundai Service Center this morning and was told they do not have a software fix for this issue. This car should officially be recalled by Hyundai and the NHTSA and owners should be warned officially they are driving a dangerous, defective car.

My car fails to charge using Level 2 40 amp charger. The car is supposed to be able to maintain charging between 40 and 48 amps. It is clear that the car is overheating during Level 2 charging and suspending charging. This can be dangerous especially if the car is advertised to be able to charge normally using Level 2 chargers. Note that the summer has been hot. Even in my garage at night, I can no longer charge at 40 amps. I have to lower my Autel charger's current down from 40 amps to 32 amps, and that seems to work. Outdoors during the day, I have to change the car's current to 60%, just so it can continue to charge without overheating. My car is less than 6 months old.

This car has detailed complaints online for the absence of a rear wiper causing zero visibility during afternoon rain and thunderstorms. In the event of a white out situation, the driver assistance systems fail to work due to hazardous conditions. You also cannot see out of the rear window or side mirrors because of a design defect. The car has been reported to Jenkins Hyundai of Ocala, where the service department is aware and informed me that Hyundai is aware of the safety concerns, but cannot fix the situation or will not offer a fix to the serious safety concern. The service department gave me the phone number to report this as a lemon to Hyundai Customer care where I was informed twice a manager named [XXX] has my case and would contact me, which she has not done. The case number given is [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Charge port is overheating and stopping charging. Widespread issue after the cars age. Their only fix is a software update that drastically throttles current to the car. Rendering very long charging times compared to what was advertised. Something is deteriorating in the electrical system since the cars charge fine when new. Overheated electrical components is very concerning. I hope NHTSA makes Hyundai remedy this issue!

I drove on the freeway around 70 miles/H last July 14th, 2023 with my wife. But suddenly the speed dropped down after I dropped my car at NORM REEVES Hyundai dealer. They keep 4 days for the test. They said all test is OK. But I am afraid to drive on the freeway. I Leased Jun 17th, 2023 new IONIQ5. Is this OK? What should I do?

I have a 2023 Ioniq 5 that was purchased in June, 2023 and an 2023 Ioniq 6 that was purchased in April, 2023. I had a new Chargepoint Home Flex charger installed in April when I purchased my Ioniq 6 and set the charging current to 40 amps. The charger was hardwired directly to my service panel with the appropriate 6 gauge wire and 60 amp breaker. My Ioniq 6 reliably charged at 40 amps until early July when it started dropping the charge rate to 23 amps about 40 minutes into my charging session when using the level 2 charger at home. My Ioniq 5 only charged at 40 amps for the first week of ownership before starting to drop the charge rate to 23 amps. When this behavior started I plugged an OBD2 scanner in and was able to monitor the AC Charging Inlet temperature and noticed that the charge drop happened when the temperature reached 240F. This causes an issue when planning my charge times because they can essentially double, meaning that my vehicles are not ready for a trip by the estimated time. I am also concerned that having electronics that overheat on an EV may be a potential fire hazard in the future. One of the key reasons for purchasing these vehicles was the advertised charge times. I have appointments with the dealership to have both vehicles examined.

Charging port overheats while charging causing it to stop charging. Charging port is hot to the touch. Seems like a fire hazard. This issue has gotten worse over the last few weeks.

Charging port overheats when attempting to charge at any speed above 6kw/hr. Charger is supposed to be rated for 48amps but overheats within minutes charging at 40 amps. Have had a TSB installed by the dealer but issue remains

Vehicle is rated to charge at up to 48 amps. Charging at over 32 amps causes a failure due to overheating

This is an electric vehicle, stated in product literature and safety sticker at charge port that it is capable of 48A / 240V AC charging. Under normal circumstances, the charging port overheats when supplied with 48A / 240V AC. The vehicle aborts charging due to the overheating charge port when ambient temperature is above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a safety risk, and the charge port needs to be designed in a way that it will not overheat when charging at levels specified in the manual and safety tags located at the charge port, regardless of normal ambient temperatures.

Level 2 charging at home interrupting. I charge with a level 2 24a in my dryer outlet and my ionic 5 sel 2023 rwd interrupt its charging 2 times. I had to force my shelf to continue.

The vehicle keeps tripping out due to the charger load on the car. This is concerning due to the repeated failures charging.

Loss of power when accelerating, Warning lights came on and off in blinking style. After losing power to zero , it would jump accelerate hard then die again.

I have an Emporia charger connected to a 60AMP breaker that can charge at a constant 48amps. This was installed as per the codes by a certified electrician. I have been owning this car since October 2022 and has over 14k miles on the car. Till last week, the car charged at 48amps without any issue. But since yesterday, charging starts smoothly till 1-2 hours. Then every 6-7 minutes, charging stops for some seconds and starts back up. After several cycles of stop and start charging, the entire charging ends before reaching the set limit. 2 weeks ago, the dealership updated the VCU as per the latest June TSB Hyundai released.

When using the one pedal driving or "iPedal" mode, the brake lights do not illuminate when braking unless your foot is completely off of the accelerator pedal. This is very dangerous because the vehicle can be stopped very hard without completely removing your foot from the gas pedal. I have stopped using this mode after almost being rear-ended three times within a week due to the car behind me not realizing that I am braking. This issue is gaining media attention. After doing research online, I have learned that there are lots of other people that have noticed the same behavior and have stopped using this mode as a result.

Vehicle fails to charge at full level 2 charging speeds. When set to 48 amps the vehicle quickly reaches a high AC inlet temperature and stops the charging. When lowered to 38 amps the vehicle charges for longer but eventually reaches the high AC inlet temperature and once again stops charging. Level 2 charging must be set to a low max of around 32 amps to successfully charge the car without it stopping the charging. Car is advertised to support 48 amps but does not work correctly. MyHyundai app constantly gives the "Electric vehicle charging alarm" message which indicates the issue occuring.

The vehicle’s 12v system failed under normal use. The vehicle is unable to be started without a jumpstart. I think this is related to the issues other Ioniq 5s are seeing.

When charging the car on an AC Level 2 charger, the vehicle overheats and charging fails. This is dangerous and can cause overheating/fire to electrical equipment as well as rendering the vehicle inoperable due to insufficient charge. There are no warnings ahead of time prior to failure. The problem is widespread and replicable, as evidenced by reports of forums, reddit, YouTube, and even a TSB issued by Hyundai that fails to adequately resolve the issue.

Charging prematurely terminates before completed. Dealer denies knowledge of this. However suggested charging at "reduced" as opposed to "maximum" level. Even charging at "reduced" setting, charging still terminates before complete.

Sometimes, the batteries trip while charging and don’t recharge, don’t charge at the expected speeds, or only charge partially. Recently, when charging at home all night and plugged into our Level 2 charger, I find find that the car has not charged at all overnight.

Occasionally, the vehicle sometimes doesn't start and allow me to engage to Drive gear from being turned off/Parked. I sometimes have to turn the car off and back on 1-2 times for the car to start like normal and allow me to select drive or reverse. Additionally, I have never been able to successfully sync my vehicle with my hyundai bluelink account despite efforts to troubleshoot with Bluelink representatives.

Cruise control became disabled and then unable to accelerate when pressing down on accelerator

When starting vehicle, presents a warning message in instrument panel of "Check electric vehicle system". The stated description indicates: "This warning message is displayed when there is a problem with the electric vehicle control system. Refrain from driving when the warning message is displayed." This could be an issue with the battery system, or steering system that puts others in danger due to the unpredictable nature of the error. The Hyundai app that reports vehicle statuses does not show any error or diagnostic codes.

When AC charging my car, It quickly overheats and disables charging. I've measured the temperatures at 239°F using OBD reader. The only way to continue charging is to reduce charge amperage. If it is reduced to 32 amps the temperature seems to stabilize before reaching the 240° emergency cut off.

Twice this week while charging my Ionic 5 the charging stops before it is completely charged to the set point. Once the set point was at 80% and once at 100%. Both times the charging stopped and I received the message below. None of the reasons listed in message was a cause of the stopping. I have called my dealer and they are checking w/service dept to see if I need a software update. I am waiting to hear back but there is obviously something wrong with the rate of charge. I am using a Jukebox home charger.

Vehicle is supposed to be able to charge at 48A on an AC charger but it does not do this during the months when ambient temperatures are above freezing. Poorly designed thermal management by the manufacturer causes charging to stop when the local temperature at the charge port door exceeds the threshold. The only way I can charge this car at home outside of the winter months is to lower the EVSE amperage to 32A which results in the car taking longer to fully charge than it’s supposed to. This car is supposed to be able to AC charge at 11.5 kW with 48A but it simply cannot do that most of the time. This issue is widely reported on the Ioniq 5 forums and is not isolated to me.

2023 Hyundai Ioniq 5 (SEL, AWD) has bad ICCU (intergrated charging control unit). Will only charge at DC chargers reliably, level 2 or level 1 chargers will only work intermittently. Has been in the shop 2 weeks with no estimated repair date as the ICCU is on backorder. This issue is affecting a lot of Hyundai/KIA/Genesis customers who's vehicles share the same platform. The dealer won't even say where I am in line to receive the ICCU vs. everyone else in North America. This is really unacceptable for a car I paid almost $60,000 for.

We purchased our 2023 Ioniq5 approximately 7 months ago. We saw an article in the newspaper about the 2022 Ioniq losing power while driving. That has happened to us 3 times in the last several months so it is not strictly the 2022 model. One time was particularly scary as I was entering a busy freeway the car lost power and as much as I pushed on the pedal I could not go more than 20mph. This happened for about 15-30 seconds then finally accelerated. My husband said he has experienced the same problem with this vehicle on 3 different occasions. Thank you.

While driving on the interstate my 2023 Ioniq 5 SEL RWD experienced a failure with the front radar system stating that it was blocked. In reality there was nothing physically blocking the system which was verified on multiple pullovers to check the front of the vehicle. This caused the critical forward safety functions, HDA system, lane change assist functions, regeneration system, and smart cruise control to all be disabled. The car is available for inspection upon request and I have video of the car displaying the fault messages during the trip as it happened on multiple occasions.

EV goes into power limited mode when on interstate when going ~50 miles while driving 70mph or more. Happened each of my 3 times on interstate of about that distance. First time was Sat 4/29 while in eco mode with 70% battery and 82°F outside, 1 hr drive 50+ miles. Second time was in normal mode Friday 5/12, 55% battery 72°F outside 1 hr drive 50+ miles. Third time was in normal mode and it happened after 42 miles. I scheduled a service after the first incident but they were only able to take it on 5/31. When this happens you lose ability to accelerate and have to coast to the side of road and let it sit for 10+ minutes to clear and then can resume, I would take surface roads after it occurred. Impacts safety for self and others, as it drastically slows without brake lights causing a high chance of being rear ended. The last incident was close to it. As it was getting worse I stopped driving on interstate with it. Car has been at the dealership's service department since 5/31. They were able to easily reproduce once they finally got to it. They diagnosed a bit and then consulted design engineers. Diagnosed on and off for a couple weeks and have finally decided to replace the drive motor. Part received Friday 6/16, to be installed tomorrow 6/20. We'll see if that addresses.

The charging system in the 2023 Ioniq 5 has multiple issues with connectivity and charging above a certain threshold. When charging at home using an electrician certified install by Merit and a county approved installation and Emporia EVSE 48A charger, the car prompts with a message that reads "Electric Vehicle Charge Alarm was processed. Your vehicle is not charging because of a connection failure. Possible reasons include: blackout, payment incompletion, charging stop button enabled." This has only recently started happening with the temperature in the closed garage reaching above 80F. The only way to rectify is to charge below 40A and this same issue is being reported by other Ioniq 5 owners via online forums as well. As it relates to DC fast charging at public infrastructure, the Ioniq 5 has a reliability problem with connectivity to the CCS1 ports that are used with Electrify America stations. The common denominator appears to be the charging port of the Ioniq 5.

The charging port on the electric vehicle appears to have poor cooling as the port frequently overheats when connected to any level 2 charger that is within the vehicle's approved specs. I've measured it going as high as 200 degrees F before the car stops accepting a charge, and even after that the port will remain piping hot until it is physically unplugged. This is quite dangerous as I mostly charge at night and am asleep when it happens in my garage. A quick search online shows that hundreds of Ioniq5 owners are having the same issue. Hyundai released a technical service bulletin(23-EV-003H), so I can take it into a dealer for a software update that will fix the issue. However, that update only succeeds in restricting how much current the car will accept in order to keep the temperature within safe levels. This means that the car I purchased cannot function safely as advertised.

What component or system failed or malfunctioned: Rear electric motor. Specifically the "engine oil pump" that is used to cool the rear motor. The pump does not respond to MCU commands and does not cool the motor. This causes the motor to overheat after about an hour of highway driving causing the motor to provide VERY limited power. How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk: When the above happens the car experiences a delayed throttle, and very little power to accelerate. This occurs while traveling on a highway where you may need to pass, but no longer have the power to do so safely. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center: Dealer took the car in and did not properly attempt to reproduce the issue. Then stated that if the car does not produce a DTC then there is no issue. The dealer has since refused to accept the car again. This has been reproduced here: https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/rear-motor-not-operating-45-min-after-charge.46007/ Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others: No, I have just started the process of reaching out to the manufacture, and if this fails I will be using my states lemon laws. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear: No this issue does not appear to throw any codes, lights, or messages. The dash shows the rear engine producing no power, and the throttle will only show half when pressed to the floor.

12v battery died within 6 days and needed to be jumped. Another 4 days and the 12v will not hold a charge at all. This is a new 2023 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD. Odo on the lot was 13 miles. Odo at 10 days was around 280. Waiting to hear from Hyundai, but dealer confirmed 12v is bad. Currently unknown if ICCU is also faulty.

brake lights do not come on when the car is in regenerative braking or driving mode and the driver is touching the gas pedal. Drivers following the car are not aware the car is actually braking not coasting. This is causing a rearending hazard. Mfr needs to correct issues so brake lights come on when car is in regenerative braking mode and the car is deaccellerating regardless of gas pedal activity

The Ioniq 5 has a braking system that does not engage the brake lights on deceleration when in certain regenerative braking settings. This is dangerous as the car will quickly decelerate and not warn drivers behind you potentially causing a crash because they are unaware the Ioniq is stopping quickly. Please have Hyundai address the issue for recall.

When my car is configured to one pedal driving mode (iPedal), the brake lights only illuminate when the accelerator pedal is fully released. This means the car may decelerate rapidly (up to 0.25G or 2.5m/s^2 according to a report) under regenerative braking, while the brake lights remain off. I believe this is a safety hazard that can increase the chances of rear-end accidents.

The brakes lights do not illuminate when slowing down using regen braking. This has cause cars to stop very close to rear-ending me. This video explains this issue in great detail https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0YW7x9U5TQ

The Ioniq 5 when using level 2 regen, level 3 regen, and i-pedal (one pedal driving), does not turn on the break light when decelerating, even if coming to a full stop unless the driver removes their foot completely from the pedal or hits the break pedal. These driving modes allow the driver to perform regenerative breaking almost to a complete stop without turning on the break lights and warning other drivers behind you. With i-pedal specifically, the driver can 100% perform all stop and go traffic maneuvers without using the break and never have the break lights activate. This appears to be the default behavior of all Ioniq 5 vehicles and is controlled via software. The vehicle does not appear to measure rate of deceleration so even if the driver were to decelerate rapidly, the brakes would not activate. This has been extensively demonstrated on youtube and the best video example of this problem can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0YW7x9U5TQ

When using the most aggressive braking energy recovery mode in the Hyundai Ioniq 5 (i-Pedal), the brake lights do not illuminate despite the aggressive nature of the braking provided by this mode. This mode brings the car to a full and complete stop and is very similar to commanded braking via the brake pedal. When using the L1-L3 braking energy recovery modes, the deceleration experienced by the car is more or less mild enough that it would be similar to a downshift in a manual transmission car. But the brake lights only illuminate if your foot is fully off the accelerator pedal. I am not aware of the regulations or SAE guidance to know if this is consistent with best practice, but it could be better with the brake light coming on once a certain deceleration (x m/s2) is reached. It is my opinion that a software change in the car's ECU could effect a fix for this. A mandatory recall would force the issue with Hyundai to actually do something about it. Note that Kia and Genesis share the same basic EV platform and may share the same logic fault in brake light activation. Here is a Youtube video that discusses the issue in a fair level of detail - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0YW7x9U5TQ

The regenerative braking will not turn on brake lights unless the accelerator is fully unpressed. In the more aggressive modes (L3 and I-Pedal), the stopping power is very strong. Without brake lights, it catches other motorists off guard and they nearly hit me. For reference, I-Pedal mode is able to bring the car to a full stop on its own. This is dangerous. The brake lights need to come on depending on the rate of deceleration, not the accelerator pedal state. This can happen at any speed, but becomes more dangerous at highway speeds.

When using most of the regenerative braking levels, including the one-pedal driving mode named “i-Pedal,” the brake lights will not illuminate until the drivers foot is fully off the gas pedal, or manually applying the brakes. This can create a dangerous, life threatening scenario leaving surrounding drivers unaware the vehicle is slowing. This has not been reproduced by the automaker not inspected by them, police, insurance, etc but has been verified on video. No warning lamps appeared.

Brake lights do NOT come on when decelerating in I-PEDAL mode and Level 3 regen brake modes, perhaps more. The car should instead generously apply brake lights by default anytime deceleration occurs via regen braking.

Brake lights do not lit while decelerating using regen braking system without letting foot off of accelerator. There is no indication for vehicle behind mine to decelerate which can result in collision

12V battery does not seem to be charging. After 2 days of not being driven, 12v battery status is too low to start the car. Jump starting works but same think occurs after couple of days of not driven.

The Ioniq 5 offers a multi-level regenerative braking system, which slows the car down to varying degrees when letting off the accelerator pedal. While these systems work well to increase efficiency, the behaviour of the brake lights while in use is concerning. Very often the car is slowing considerably, enough to be akin to light braking, but the brake lights do not activate. This can be full let off the accelerator pedal and slowing with not brakes, or with a partial lift (especially on higher regen levels), where the vehicle is obviously slowing but the brake lights do not activate. This has been talked about on various forums and some review videos, and I expect this is not the first complaint placed about this issue. So far it has not caused a problem with my vehicle, but I have had to alter my driving habits to account for this, and it at times renders some of the vehicles technology dangerous to use, despite that technology being added to the car as a benefit to the driver under most conditions.

The contact owns a 2023 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to charge at 120 or 240 volts. The charging unsuccessful alert was displayed. The contact stated that the vehicle only charged on a DC fast charger. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit) that allowed both high-voltage and secondary batteries in vehicles to be charged had failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 500.

When using i-Pedal (one-pedal driving) mode in this vehicle, it can decelerate at a very fast rate but does not illuminate the brake lights unless the driver’s foot is completely off the pedal. For example, I can be driving 60mph and decelerate to ~2mph as quickly as other drivers coming to a complete stop, but my brake lights will not illuminate until my foot is **completely** removed from the pedal. This is contradictory to the way one-pedal driving works, since coming to a smooth and slow stop requires that you slowly lift off the accelerator pedal, during which the brake lights do not illuminate because your foot is still pressing the pedal (albeit less and less as you come closer to the stop).

I've owned this car for 4 months now. We own 2 electric cars, 1 ioniq 5 and 1 Fiat 500e. We have a level 2 charger in the garage. A month ago I noticed the ioniq stopped charging overnight. When I tried the next day, it charged for about 30 minutes, then I would get a msg on my phone saying charging had stopped. I can remotely start the charging again, but then it would stop every 10 or 15 minutes. This is still happening. The Fiat has no issues charging, leaving me to believe it's not the charger that is the problem. I've even reduced the charge to the middle level but it hasn't helped. I will be taking this into Hyundai this month for them to see what's wrong.

Hater does not push out any hot or heated air.

There is no rear windshield wiper and the design of the car causes much dirt/gunk to build up HEAVILY obscuring visibility There are times where I'm driving at night (esp. when it's raining) where I can barely make out the cars/objects behind me. It is very dangerous

While driving in the one pedal driving mode (“iPedal”), it is possible to rapidly slow the vehicle while keeping the accelerator pedal slightly depressed, which is the expected result for this regenerative braking mode. While rapidly decelerating in this mode, however, the brake lights do not illuminate while the accelerator pedal is slightly depressed. Even though regenerative braking is active and the car is rapidly decelerating, there is no brake light illumination. The brake lights only turn on if the accelerator pedal is not pressed at all, which during typical one-pedal driving only occurs at the very end when coming to a complete stop, or when stopping suddenly during a cut-in or at a light. This is a serious safety concern because the vehicle will decelerate very quickly with no visual warning lights to other drivers behind the vehicle. I have noticed that this issue has been reported by other drivers online, but I have not yet taken the vehicle to be inspected by the dealer. There is no indication of failure on the dashboard.