The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated while accelerating approximately 5 MPH from a stop, the vehicle lost motive power. The contact stated the failure had occurred two days in a row, with the second failure resulting in the vehicle coming to a complete stop. The contact turned off and restarted the vehicle and the vehicle operated normally. The contact stated that he placed the vehicle into SPORT Mode and the vehicle seemed to operate normally. The contact had not taken the vehicle to a local dealer or independent mechanic. The vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The contact researched online and related the failure to NHTSA Action Number: PE23011 Components (Electrical System). The failure mileage was approximately 16,500.

WHEN Home charging with my 50Amp Union installed Charger ,The Ionic5 Hyundai Overheats and shuts down charger ,.I purchased a new Charger 50 Amp. Installed by Union Electrican , Same results . I am very concerned that the Auto will catch on Fire in my garage. Please have mfg ,correct this problem This problem occurs multi times never charges more than 20 minutes

Vehicle suspension in the rear feels unsettled when coming to a stop using regenerative brakes. If you hit a small pothole or recessed manhole cover the rear of the vehicle feels like the rear suspension is jumping. I've taken it to the dealer and they noticed it and also it occurred on a new ioniq 5 they had on the lot also.

We have owned an Ionic 5 for a year. For 8 months the level 2 charging system worked fine. We have two 40 amp level 2 chargers at two different locations which both charge the car at between 9.0 and 9.2 kW, well below the Ionic 5’s advertised capacity of 10.6 kW. After 8 months the charging session began to fail after only 1.5 hours due to the charge port overheating. Initially this seemed to be related to the ambient temperature, but now the failure occurs even when the ambient temperature is below 70. Once the session fails, the charging system keeps cycling between starting and failing, with each cycle lasting only a couple of minuets. Therefore it is very difficult to charge the car to even an 80% capacity. I am also worried about the impact this constant cycling is having on the battery overheating as well as the life of the battery.

The vehicle will not fully charge at home at night on a level 2 EVSE. It charges for a few minutes, than stops entirely. When I restart the process, the same issue remains. I cannot charge the car fully at Level 2, 40amps. I wake up in the morning and only 5% of charge has been added.

In the 1.5 years since I bought the 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5 (new vehicle) there have been three instances where the car has failed to turn on or off due to rapid discharge of the 12 V battery. In all three occasions, the main battery was fully charged; however, the 12V discharged rapidly. The first two times this happened it took about 20 to 30 minutes of waiting for the main battery to charge the 12V battery before the car would start; however, on the most recent occasion, I had to call a tow truck in order to get the car jump started. I am very concerned about the safety of myself and my young children as I regularly use this car to go to work and take my kids to school. The only warning sign was a yellow light on the dashboard of the car—the indication that the main battery is charging the 12 V battery (this was happening more frequently leading up to the 3 instances, which tells me that the 12V battery needed charge, but was being insufficiently charged by the main battery). Because of the poor 12V battery, I avoid using functions that could deteriorate the 12V battery, such as air conditioning, and the GPS system. Hyundai recently sent a letter/safety notice about a faulty ICCU and fuse, and I will be taking the car in soon to get this repaired, but the repeated discharges of the 12V battery in the last 1.5 years has deteriorated the 12V battery enough that Hyundai should be proactively replacing it (not just the ICCU and fuse).

The ICCU failed in the car. The car lost power while driving and showed an EV warning and the 12V battery warning.

While driving at highway speeds, there was a loud pop and the display showed "reduce power mode". We had to improvise a stopping place despite being far from home. There was no warning or issues beforehand. This incident was risky because of the loss of power while on a high speed thoroughfare and limited stopping options. The vehicle required a jump to move onto tow truck to take to dealership, where it has remained for two weeks without an estimate for repair. The symptoms.seem consistent with ICCU failure.

When my car is plugged in to charge it keeps stopping the charge. Example: Starts at 24% and stops at 28% I restart charge and it stops at 47%. Each time the charging port on the car is hot. This has happened multiple times. I now have to set reminders on my phone to check that my car is still charging so I can get to work in the morning. I am at the dealer now and they say there is nothing they can do because they have not been notified that it is an issue Thank you for your attention to this matter

Issues with home charging at 40 amps port heats up and stops charging. When I purchased this car they stated it was possible charging at that rate.

Check electric charge error displayed, alarm sounding, loss of power to the vehicle while driving (limp mode).

While driving on the highway on 8/12 at around 4pm, with another passenger, doing approximately 65 MPH I received a "Check Electric Vehicle System" warning on my dashboard. The car showed no prior warnings, no other lights were on. MyHyundai app was also showing no diagnostic issues with the car. The car battery was showing a 77% charge at the time. I swerved on to the shoulder, putting myself in danger as this is a really busy highway. I checked the car and could not find anything wrong. Hyundai had not contacted me regarding any recalls. I decided to keep driving to see if I could make it home to diagnose the issue. I made it another 20 minutes and as I was about to exit the highway at around 60MPH the car completely slowed down to 20MPH suddenly, and I was forced to swerve onto the shoulder once again. The car would not accelerate past 20 MPH. Fearing an accident, I called a tow truck and had the car towed back to my house. There were no warnings lights/signs prior to this event. The car completely slowed down from 60-65MPH to 20MPH in the middle of the highway and I was forced to make an emergency stop putting myself and my passenger at risk. The car was brought to the dealership on 8/14 which is the first time I was alerted that there had been a recall on my car and that the ICCU would need replacement. At no point did Hyundai ever contact me via email, text, call, or mail alerting me there was a recall prior to this scary experience. This is gross negligence on the part of Hyundai, as my vehicle could have been rear ended and caused a major accident on the highway.

Lost power while driving

Vehicle suddenly had no power on the highway. Error messages said to check the power supply. Prior to this there were error messages to stop the vehicle and check the power supply. Car would not drive more than 20mph. Car then died on the highway without any power when attempting to drive to the dealer. Problem was reproduced and confirmed by the dealer to be a faulty ICCU.

The car will only charge at half of the advertised Level 2 AC charging rate. It advertises it can charge at 48 amps; however, we cannot charge above 24 amps. If we charge above that rate the charging will stop. The issue appears to be well documented in online forums where if the charging port reaches about 100 Degrees C it will fault. There is a TSB they are installing but it just makes it automatically derate to ~24 amps which other than providing 15 minutes of higher power it doesn't at all solve the situation. Hyundai has recently stated that they are aware of the issue and they expect people to live with it and re-adjust their expectations; but it is fair to expect the car to perform as advertised. I also don't think any caveats about charging speed for weather or state of charge would be specific to level 3 charging; I am not aware of another EV in existence that doesn't provide its advertised AC charging level. It pretty clearly appears to be defective hardware. We also have friends who bought their car a month later (July 2023) and they are having the same issue; albeit they can still charge at 32amps. To answer the questions directly. - Charge Port - The cars cannot charge in time advertised making people drive without buffers and could run out of power on trips because they can only charge at half the rate advertised and couldn't charge overnight. - We are getting the TSB that will automatically reduce the charging rate this week. we had to wait over a month for an appointment. - It has not been inspected yet but all they are going to do per the TSB is if we say we have the problem they do the software update. - There are no customer facing error codes. The issue first started in March the first day it was over 70 degrees. We did not have an issue last summer or over the winter. The longest we can charge since then at 40 amps is about 15 minutes. We have never even charged the car at 48 amps which is what it is supposed to be able to do.

When in motion, the “EV Start Stop”button is still allowed to turn off the vehicle if accidentally pressed. This happened to me while on the highway and moving about 15-20 MPH. The vehicle suddenly lose power and wouldn’t accelerate. I could not move the vehicle, without hitting the EV Start Stop button several times.

Hyundai San Jose dealership, Customer Service, told me, The fuse surrounding the Lithium battery is broken. This causes the whole car break down, and it is very dangerous to drive. My car has been in this Hyundai dealership over 5 months now, Hyundai cannot send the parts to San Jose Hyundai and I cannot drive the car. Also the 12V small lead acid battery in the front, broken down a few times. Cannot start the car. The whole car shuts down.

Charge port on vehicle overheats when charging on AC charger and stops charging. Anything above 32 amps. The car is supposed to handle 48 amps.

When starting the vehicle I received an error that said "Check Electric Vehicle System". The vehicle seemed to be working fine at slow speeds in the parking lot at work. When I exited onto a city street I realized I had lost normal acceleration and could not go above 25mph. I pulled into a parking lot and turned the car off and on to see if the error cleared. It did not. Also received an additional error stating " Stop vehicle and check power supply". At that point I called roadside assistance for a tow. The vehicle is now at my local Hyundai dealership. Their service dept has stated they will take a look at it in 7-10 days most likely.

I was driving and the car suddenly slowed down unable to accelerate much and showed a messaged saying 'Check Electrical Vehicle System‘. The service center says it is an ICCU problem. I have been waiting several weeks the part is still on backorder without any ETA.

Recently - my car has been encountering an issue and it has been slowly getting worse and worse. I have a 40 amp Level 2 charger I frequently use to charge my car. I first noticed it a few weeks ago, where my car seemingly stopped charging for no reason. I brushed it off, then unplugged it + plugged it back in and the rest of the session went fine. Lately, as temps have been rising I noticed the car failing charging sessions one, or two times per day. After doing some research, it turns out i’m far from the only one having this issue. Many other others have been experiencing the same issue as I, and the same degradation. Some people who were initially able to charge their car at 11kw, are now only to charge around 5kw, otherwise the cars onboard AC charger gets too hot and ends the charging session. I have started to see my car degrade as well, as I have had to lower my charge rate to 32a. I have tested out Level 2 AC charging on other chargers as well to rule out my charger being the problem, and it happens on them too unfortunately. To combat this AC charger overheating issue, Hyundai has released a TSB number 23-EV-003H. Unfortunately, the only thing this TSB does is kneecap the cars ability to level 2 charge at a decent rate. After the TSB is applied, once the car detects an overheating onboard AC charger, it will throttle the AC charge rate all the way down to around 5kw. This is unacceptable, when owners of the Ioniq 5 and 6 were promised a vehicle that is able to do 11kw AC charging, or as claimed on Hyundais website, a Level 2 charge from 10-100 in 6 hours and 43 minutes. With my car throttled to 32 amps, it doesn’t charge nearly as fast adding hours onto the total time required to charge. This is an issue for me because I do not have a place to come home to every single night to charge my car, i’m only able to stop by the charger momentarily which means securing as much energy as fast as possible through Level 2 charging is very important to me.

Car intermittently stops charging using a level two charger. Problem started approximately February 2023. Did not happen prior to that date. Car will issue a report through blue link app every 2 to 3 minutes reporting charging failure. This alert will happen approximately 50 times throughout the charging process until charging is complete.

The Draw-tite 76589 was purchased through Uhaul Canada for my 2022 Ioniq5. After a few months of use with a light trailer according to the specifications of Hyundai, Uhaul and Drawtite, it tore of a part of the vehicles frame. After the inspection at U-Haul and Hyundai dealership, they concluded that the problem occured because the hitch wasn't designed to mount on the specified by Hyundai mounting spot, hence it caused the damage. There are many cases like that on Ioniq5 forum as well as at different hitch installing companies who used this model. This model is now discontinued, although still sold, and was replaced by a 76632 model which mounts to the right location. Horizon Global did not contact the customers, not their distributors/dealers and doesn't compensate the customers who contacted them. After 7 months I still have the hitch on the car if you want to inspect it.

My vehicle began having charge failures at 13k miles. It went from working fine to not charging at all. The dealership has told me it is an ICCU issue and must be replaced. The ICCU is on back order with mo eta. I am left without a vehicle and no compensation.

While driving in heavy rain, I got warning: Stop and Check Battery. When I could find a safe place I stopped and read the Manual. I could find nothing helpful. My car was 63% charged. This was the 12v battery failing. I was then 5 miles from home. I turned off radio and lights, but could not drive without wipers. At about 2 miles from home the car slowed down. I continued to lose power as the rain got heavier. I was able to keep barely moving until I pulled into my driveway. I got out and locked the car by habit. I realized I needed it unlocked, but it was too late; it was DEAD. At the end the display read Losing Power and showed a small turtle. Indeed.

ICCU failure. The car dashboard display alert "Stop vehicle and check power supply" While trying to drive to the nearest dealership to inspect the alert, the car was limiting to 25mph, and eventually, the car died completely.

The car (2022 Ioniq 5, an EV) lost power while driving. There was warning at the same time stating that the car is losing power and need to stop for safety. Minutes later the car completely lost power and can not be turned on. The car has to be towed to Hyundai dealer. It has been 2 months and 2 weeks and the car is till in Hyundai dealer's lot without being repaired. We were told by the dealer a control unit need to be replaced and it has to be shipped from Korean.

When driving for a distance at higher speeds, power will suddenly drop to the zero point btw acceleration and regeneration. You can feel the car start to drag as the power drops. If you press hard on the accelerator to stop it from slowing, it will suddenly jump forward. This has happened now on several long trips where I am constatly fighting with the car to keep it powered and not slipping into the zero zone. When it leaps forward the lane assist will also grab control and make it difficult to control the car. The car also stops slowing consistently when I take my foot off the accelerator and will move/ jump forward more than is typical for an EV instead of slowing the way an EV should as it regenerates. This all happened twice previously on a long trip and today constantly during a three hour drive. Does not feel safe!

I was driving on the highway passing an 18 wheeler when suddenly the car decelerated and stop quick and was unresponsive and screen showed electric system malfunctioning. Could not moved from left lane on the highway. Thanks God that the person behind me at the moment was a police officer who helped me stop the traffic so we could move the the car to the service road. Car is on the shop and they are trying to figure out what is going on

1.We purchased the vehicle (Hyundai Ioniq 5, 2022 Model) on MAY 20, 2022. 2.The vehicle was acceptable until it started to fail on us while we were on the road, and soon after the vehicle crawled home at limited power and came to a stop, it would no longer even turn on. 3.Then started our nightmare with Hyundai USA. We called the service department and they told us, based on our brief description of what happened, that our vehicle would be unsafe to drive a single more mile (which was impossible anyhow because it wouldn’t turn on), and to tow our vehicle to Hyundai dealership in Fayetteville, AR for repair on DECEMBER 27, 2022 at our own expense. 4. From what Hyundai, Fayetteville, AR's service engineer named Evan told us, they have replaced the fuse no less than four times and it kept blowing when they went to test the vehicle. After the basic fuse replacement, it caused the problem to become worse, and revealed an ICCU problem, that then revealed acceleration and charging problems, and the initial fuse problem still persisted. Codes kept popping up, and whenever they fixed the current issue, another one would present. Long story short, it turned out the vehicle was experiencing “mass power surges,” issues with the batteries, and displaying codes for reasons they were unsure of, causing the basic fuse replacement to “pop.” They even called in a Hyundai Engineer directly from corporate to try to fix the vehicle, but according to Evan, even he had no idea what was wrong with the vehicle and had left with some data.

On 3/22/23, after using my car most of the day, I started my car to leave work and heard a small pop noise and a warning appeared on my dashboard to 'Check Power Supply'. As I was relocating to another parking spot, the car gave an audible beeping warning and another warning appeared on my dashboard to 'Stop Vehicle Immediately and Check Power Supply'. After speaking with the dealership, it was determined that my car had to be towed. I did not experience any loss of power/speed because I was only in a parking lot. The dealership informed me the next day that the car needed a new fuse and ICCU, but that the part was on backorder and they did not have an estimate on when they may get the part in. Repairs to my vehicle were completed on 5/3/23 (6 weeks) later. Hyundai did agree to reimburse me for the cost of a rental vehicle, but did not reimburse me for the gas expenses that were incurred that I otherwise would not have had.

The ICCU (integrated charging control unit) failed while I was out. I had to get the car towed to a dealership and it's been sitting in their lot for over two months. It took them two weeks to even confirm the issue, and the part is on indefinite backorder at the time of writing this. When the ICCU fails, the car cannot recharge the 12V battery. This forces the car to not travel above 25 MPH and when the 12V battery finally dies, the car will not be able to start. There was no prior indicators that would suggest such a critical component was about to fail, and apparently is such a common occurrence that there is a waitlist for the replacement. My ETA has been pushed back 3 times so far.

Got a check electrical system warning and moments later the message to stop the car. Was able to pull into a parking lot where the car lost all power and had to be towed to dealer. Just received word that I have an ICCU failure and the part is on back order.

Charging port becomes exceedingly hot and vehicle stops charging. The charging end of my cable is extremely hot to the touch.

My car is unable to charge at the advertised 48A charge limit due to overheating of the charge port. Once I start charging, within 30 minutes to 2 hours the car will stop charging abruptly. It appears this is due to the AC Inlet port sensor reading 212F degrees when the issue occurs. The car is advertised as having 48A charging and if it’s not capable of this, Hyundai needs to resolve it.

Charging at home with a 240v level 2 charger overheats the car charging port causing a charge failure. This is a potential fire hazard.

The charge port in the car overhears when on a Level 2 (240v) charger running above 30 amps. This is happening to most 2022 Ioniq 5 cars, not just mine. Hyundai is aware and they just made it harder to charge over 30 amps. This is incredibly dangerous! They need to recall the associated parts before fires occur. It is unsafe to charge the car at the advertised rate!!

Made an attempt to start the vehicle and noticed two messages on the dash as follows 1. "12V battery Voltage Battery Low" 2. "Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply" Attempted to put the vehicle in drive. The vehicle would not engage in drive mode. Shut the vehicle off and made a second attempt to restart the vehicle. This time the vehicle did not start. Had the vehicle towed to a local Hyundai dealer. Hyundai dealer took 2 weeks to diagnose the problem. Was advised by the dealer that the ICCU module needed to be replaced along with fuses, and coolant. Also noticed vehicle having slow acceleration at times after charging. Also notice a weird noise on right rear passenger side of the vehicle sounding like fluid pumping at times. Vehicle has been at the dealer for 27 days and still not repaired

On Monday Jun 19 2023 around 7pm PT while I was parallel parking, I heard a pop from the engine area and immediately saw the center console show a warning message (one beep, then no further beeps): “Check electric vehicle system” I finished parking and left the car running while I starting to investigate online what this error meant. After ~2 minutes parked I got an active alarm (beep beep beep beep) that said “Stop Vehicle and Check Power”. I turned off the car. The battery was at 22% at this time, with about 44 miles of range. BlueLink Vehicle Diagnostic accessed from the in-car infotainment system said no issues found. The MyHundai App Diagnostic Report on my Android phone said All Systems Normal. On advice from a Hyundai dealer that I could drive 2 miles home, so I did. When the car started I saw the warning “Check electric vehicle system” and made it about 5 minutes before I got the active alarm “Stop vehicle and check power” I turned off the car and turned it back on and finished the 5 minute drive home. Thursday of the same week, the Android app continued to say All Systems Normal and on the same day I paid to have the car towed to a Hyundai dealer. Today, July 10th, I finally got a call back from the Hyundai dealer that the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit) was in need of repair and that they have no ETA for when the part will come available. I do appreciate that they offered me a loaner car during the wait, however long that will be. I saw on the NHTSA website that there was an active investigation into a similar issue, and wanted to share my story.

Another ICCU / fuse failure......At 17,000 miles, I heard a popping sound and the Check Electrical System" warning came up on the dash. I pulled over and checked the menus on screen but could not find any way to check my electrical system. I pulled back on the road and within a mile the dash displayed a message to "Stop Vehicle.....speed was reduced to about 20 mph and I limped a few hundred yards to my office. Called 4 dealers and each told me they were aware of the issue but already had a number of Ioniq 5's in their service lot but estimated anywhere from 4-8 weeks to "look at it". I found 1 dealer nearby willing to take the car and look at it within a week. Praying Hyundai recognizes this problem and issues a recall soon.

ICCU charging system faulty. 12v battery was not charged sufficiently. Car not operational. Part on back order and can take months to repair.

The car showed 67% battery life. But it would not charge any further. When we plugged it in, the voice would say "Charging Unsuccessful". The dash had the 'check electric vehicle' system error and when we tried to drive it, we got the red 'stop vehicle' error and alarm. We parked the car, called the dealership who made an appointment to have it diagnosed and told us not to drive it in the meantime. When it was time to take the car into the dealership, I turned it on and got 'turtle mode' and couldn't accelerate past 5mph and had trouble controlling the steering. I got about 100 ft past my driveway and the car completed powered down. It had to be towed to the dealership. When this car powers down, you can't do anything, you can't roll down the windows or unlock the doors or get the car in neutral. The tow truck driver had to use a portable battery and jumper cables just to power the car on so he could get it in neutral which releases the parking park so he could pull it on the flatbed. The dealership said our integrated charging control unit (ICCU) needs replaced; the part is on back order with no ETA. So, they have our car, and we're driving a rental and paying for gas again.

When charging at home on level 2 charger at 40 amps, after 20-30 minutes of charging the charge drops from 9.71kw to 5.51kW. Previously charging at 40 amps the car would just stop charging completely, but after software update the car charge drops dramatically after 20-30 minutes. Research supports similar charging issues with 40-48 amp home chargers. The charge port seems to get overheated and automatically reduces charge speed. The technical service bulletin/software update has not fixed the charging issue.

Level 2 charging fails on warm days if charging above 9kw. I am unable to charge my car on days above 80-90 degrees using my 9.6kw (40 amp) Level 2 charger, as the cars internal will get so hot to the point where it overheats, and force stops charging. Occasionally, I will come back to my car while charging and find it's charging at a much lower speed then it should be. Hyundai claims to have a TSB to fix this issue, but it only neuters the cars charging ability, it doesn't actually fix the ability of the car to charge at 40 or 48 amps on a warm way.

The Hyundai dealer service department has diagnosed my car as having an issue with the ICCU and 12-volt batter. It is now in the shop indefinitely as they don't know when it will be repaired. I had an electrical warning light that didn't go away when I started driving. Less than two miles from my home, the MPH dropped to 20. I managed to drive it home where it failed in my driveway. AAA tried to charge the battery/jump it, to no avail. I had them tow it to the nearest Hyundai Ioniq 5 dealer. I owned the car one year plus one day when this occurred.

Car doesn't charge at stated capacity. Charging consistently fails after a short time adding only a few miles to range. Reduced charging rate still produces failure. Well documented problem across many owners and manufacturer fails to address this major problem with a recall

Charging port overheats when charging at rated amperage on a level 2 charger, causing charging to stop repeatedly. Car does not charge consistently over 32 amps, but it’s advertised as charging at 48amps.

I turned on the car and immediately got a "check electric vehicle system" error, and then shortly after a "stop vehicle and check power supply" error. I located a nearby dealership to diagnose and repair the vehicle, and called a tow truck to take it there. My car is parked in a garage in an alley. After the tow truck arrives in the alley, I turn on the car and get the same errors, and pull into the alley. As I'm pulling into the alley, the car start behaving very eratically, not responding well to the accelerator or steering wheel, and then within a couple minutes the display goes blank, completely black, with some white glitchy pixels periodically. Thankfully, I had already put the car into neutral at this point so the car could be pulled onto the flatbed tow truck. Once the displays stopped working, the car was completely unresponsive. I was unable to lock or unlock doors by using physical buttons on doors or remote buttons on my key. The power trunk lift gate would not open. In the world of cell-phones, they would say my car was "bricked." Completely unresponsive to any input, and the display still black with occasional white glitching flashing across display. The dealership's diagnostics was that there was a malfunction in the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU). They replaced the ICCU and the 12 volt battery and I received the car back from the dealership. Everything seems fully operational again.

While driving, on a busy street in Holyoke MA, a STOP waning appeared on the drivers display indicating an electrical/power problem. I pulled over to side of road and called a tow truck. Car was taken to dealer where they ran diagnostics on the vehicle. Diagnostics showed failed ICCU and bad cell in 12v battery. Replaced ICCU and high voltage fuse.

I received a 'check electric vehicle system' notice on my car.I believe this is related to the 12V/ICCU issue occurring in the I5's.

Car displayed a message "12V battery voltage low. Stop safely" and the 12V baatery does not charge in the vehicle. This is a known issue with this car and is currently being investigated for a vehicle recall.

THE car dash board flashed a message: STOP IMMEDIATELY. CHECK THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I drove 1 mile home, called the dealer, was told to have the car towed to dealer. When the tow truck arrived the car battery was totally dead. The dealer said it was an ICCU problem, and that they had seen it before. Could take weeks, or months, to get a new part!

Level 2 garage charging of car overheats and switches off mid-charge, even with the kWh from the wall charger throttled to Hyundai's minimum setting (60%). What was a minor/occasional problem is now a constant problem in hotter summer temperature, and there is no way to charge the car fully.

Vehicle constantly disconnects from level 2 chargers, when charging interface overheats beyond threshold. This is an ongoing issue, and I have had this symptom on multiple chargers so it is specific to the vehicle. It is a common and known issue with the internal charging control unit (ICCU), yet Hyundai has refused to issue a recall to replace the faulty components. They have issued a TSB which throttles charging speed to minimum when the error occurs, but this is an unacceptable solution due to charging time constraints for many customers. I purchased the car with the understanding that I could charge at 48 amps, not 16, which is where I have to set it to keep from disconnecting constantly. The overheating components could also cause a fire hazard in certain situations.

Was driving the vehicle in a local road and felt sudden drop in vehicle speed. Had to press hard the acceleration pedal to avoid any collision from behind. The vehicle could not gain enough speed in a ~45~60mile speed zone and driven ~2miles slowly to work place. The vehicle had to be towed to a local delearship as they suggested. The warning message was 'Stop vehicle and check Power supply' immediately after and changed to 'Check EV System' when started ~1hr later at the time of towing. The local dealership diagnosed it to be needing a new ICCU board, integrated charge control unit, which is in back order for ~2weeks (vehicle is still at dealership). In hindsight (after hearing recent news on ICCU failure of Ioniq5), the vehicle had a related issue in Feb 2023. At that time, the vehicle electrical system got blacked-out in my garage (it didn't respond to any button pressing with completely dark dashboard screen). It was towed to a local dealership since jump jump start could not fix it. They replaced a 12V battery for which local dealership could not give me convencing reason for the dead 12V battery .

Ioniq 5 continuously fails to complete charging when on level-2 EVSE. Charging port and plug feel extremely warm to the touch, even in cool ambient weather. Multiple UL-listed charge cables yield similar results, while working perfectly well with other EVs.

I have installed a hard wired 240V/48 amp EVSE for charging my vehicle at home. When charging at any current above 32 amps, the charger on the car is apparently overheating and causing charging to stop for approximately 3 minutes and restart charging then stopping again after another 30 seconds or so. Hyundai has issued a "fix" for this which simply throttles the maximum potential amperage delivered, resulting in delayed charging of the main vehicle battery. There are no warnings in the vehicle when this occurs, I just get a notification in the Hyundai app that charging was stopped. My only current workaround is to drop the amperage to 32 amps, which is 33% slower charging than I anticipated when installing the EVSE. Had I known of this issue, I could have opted for a less expensive and easier install method, but Hyundai issues no such warning when you purchase the vehicle.

The Hyundai Ioniq 5 advertises quick charging via level 2 (240v) supporting nearly 10 amps. Hyundai has acknowledged by issuing a TSB this year that the charging port overheats at high amperage and causes charging to cease before the battery reaches the intended state of charge. The TSB addresses the issue by slowing the rate of charge substantially when the port overheats. As a result, owners are unable to "refuel (charge)" the vehicle at the advertised rates. In addition to the overheating charge port posing a potential hazard, the result is that an uninformed owner may not have necessary charge to reach their destination.

Hyundai's connected car service (bluelink) suffered an outage that resulted in driver profiles on many Hyundai vehicles being deleted/reset. No notice was provided and the profiles were not recovered. As a result, the vehicles did not funtion as expected. Driver assist settings were set to default (steering, braking, and acceleration functions included). Hyundai provided instructions on how to set up a new profile in response rather than restoring the customer data to their personally owned hardware (car).

Vehicle charging stops because the port gets overheat while charging on A/C. https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/14g1922/charging_issues/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1 I have this exact same issue. It doesn't happens when you charge on 32amps EVSE. But 40or 48amps is the problem.

Hyundai has admitted that the integrated vehicle charger port overheats when charged at 48A. My vehicle was often stopping charge after only an hour or a few percent, leaving me without enough charge in the morning. Hyundai has offered a software "fix" for the problem which downrates the charging speed when overheating is detected, but this is only a bandaid solution and slows the car's charging speed by half, which was not what was promised when the car was sold.

I was driving and could go no faster than 30 mph. I was very close to a dealership (a few blocks) and was able to make it there before the entire car turned off. An electrical error displayed on the dashboard before it shut down.

Driving the car about at 45mph then I heard a pop sound from the rear of the car. Car displayed warning "Check Electrical Vehicle System." I pull over, shut it off, then restarted it. The "check Electrical Vehicle System" light stills on then an emergency message displayed 'Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply.' When I tried to drive to a safe place I noticed the car would not drive faster than 25mph. If this would have happened in a highway this could have been a safety issue. Dealership confirmed that the Integrated Charge Circuit Unit (ICCU) needs to be replaced.

My partner was driving my car on Tuesday, May 23, 2023 and received a "Check Electrical Vehicle System" warning. Within 30 minutes of receiving that warning, the maximum speed on the car was throttled to 20 mph and shortly after that, the car stopped working entirely. Thankfully, my partner was on a residential street when all this occurred and was able to move to safety; however, had any of this happened in a highway driving scenario, the results could have been catastrophic. My car was towed to a dealership that same evening and it has been with the service department since then. The two parts on backorder they are waiting on on the ICCU Assembly and a High Voltage Fuse. Upon searching for other Hyundai IONIQ 5 owners with similar issues, various internet forums are filled with reports of similar things happening. At this point, I have been told this part is on backorder for potentially up to 6-9 months and after repeated calls with the dealership and the corporate office, Hyundai has not acknowledged the extent of this issue, the potential safety concerns, nor offered any relief for being without my, basically brand new, car for the remainder of this year.

The vehicle completely lost power and there was 207 miles left to the charge. The message displayed on the driver's screen read "12V battery voltage low. Stop safely" I had no other choice than to stop since the car suddenly had zero power. The car was towed to Hyundai dealership on 2/15/23 and I have yet to have the vehicle repaired. Hyundai keeps informing me that the part is on order and delayed. I have been waiting a long time for a defective vehicle.

I was driving about 30 mph on a secondary road when the vehicle suddenly lost power and speed and a large batter warning light came on on the dash. I restarted the vehicle, and the same thing happened again. We had the car taken to Peder Hyndai in Poway, CA. 858-486-6560. They said that there was a fault with the "battery control module", and that they would have to order parts. They said they had "at least two" other ionic 5s with the same problem. We've been driving a loaner for 1 mo, and still the part hasn't arrived. This was the third trip that day, and there were no problems with the earlier trips. This had never happened before. The car did not make any unusual sound that sticks in my mind during the episode.

On Apr 18, 2023, My vehicle had a complete electrical system failure while driving on the local street. When the failure occurred, a warning message along with loud audible beeps was displayed suddenly indicating the vehicle was experiencing an Electrical System failure, and we must be pulled over immediately without delay due to safety concerns. The system completely failed shortly after, and the vehicle became unresponsive and inoperable. This post a major safety risk to those inside the vehicle, other vehicles, and pedestrians nearby if the vehicle became inoperable in the middle of traffic. The vehicle was towed to the dealership (Stevens Creek Hyundai, Santa Clara, California) the following day for inspection. The inspection report indicated a failure in the ICCU fuse unit and the 12V battery. This issue falls into the power train defect and repair will be covered under the manufacturer's warranty. The vehicle has been with the dealership for 6 weeks to date (Jun 20) without a repair ETA. The vehicle was purchased brand new in Mar 2022. It was only 13 months new, with 8090 miles at the time of incident. The work order is attached.

On 24 May 2023, I heard a "pop" sound when starting my Ioniq5 and immediately received warnings directing me to stop the vehicle and check the battery system. The car was taken to the dealer on the same day and is still out of service. The dealer notified me that the problem is due to an "ICCU" issue and that parts are backordered and they do not have an estimated date for the receipt of parts or repair.

I received a warning on my dashboard while driving "Check electric vehicle system". A few minutes later I received the message "Stop vehicle and check power supply". My car would not go faster than 20 MPH, and I had it towed to the dealership. They said it was an ICCU issue and the part was on nationwide backorder. My car has been at the dealership for 41 days.

Failed EV drive system. Error messages of electrical problems and shortly went complete dead. 12 volt battery was dead and won't charge. Car was towed to Ideal Hyundai in Fredrick MD. Dealer reported failed ICCU and parts for repair are on back order. Fortunately the failure occurred when pulling away from parking. If I had been at highway speed it could have been disastrous.

This is an electric vehicle that features “iPedal” driving, what Hyundai refers to as one-pedal driving. The main safety issue is that when you decelerate using one pedal, which is a fairly aggressive deceleration, the brake lights do not come on unless you lift your foot entirely from the accelerator or apply the brake pedal (which one would rarely do in iPedal mode). Hyundai needs to rethink their concept of operations for how their brake lights should operate. People are at risk of getting rear-ended. I didn’t realize this was how the vehicle operated until I was almost rear-ended today. Please push them to fix this issue.

- EV Fuse blown My Hyundai Ioniq5 EV electrical system stopped function on March 25th, 9 month after we purchased this EV, on a busy highway. It took Hyundai dealer 8 weeks to fix this issue. Due to the fix report, some fuse was blown. - Automatic Emergency Braking engaged On Jun 16th, when driving on HW 90 west bound, road was clean. No vehicle in front of me. The "Automatic Emergency Braking " was engaged. This could be very dangerous if the highway was busy.

Car literally DIED while driving. Went from normal speed to 12mph to 6mph to dead. ICCU failure.

Accelerator failed to engage on two occasions. 5/18/2023: First while driving on highway at 70MPH. Car slowed down gradually and I pulled onto shoulder. 5/19/2023: Again the next day driving 35 MPH. Pulled off road onto private driveway. On both occasions I turned car off and back on and it resumed normally. Fortunately no accident or traffic problem. I brought car to the dealer (Country Hyundai Northampton) to be checked and they could not find a problem.

The power gave out on the car and Hyundai refuses to fix it. They said a part needs to ship over and they give very little updates.

Called an ICCU failure. It's the control unit that charges the 12V battery from the high voltage battery. The unit fails blowing the high voltage fuse. Failure of this component causes the vehicle to all but shut down, even while driving. This is known by Hyundai. Others have said this happens at about 12 months and 10,000 miles. My car was 53/54weeks old and had 9,300 miles. This failure of this part may have also caused my AC to stop working. As pressure sensor on the 12V system that was working before the component failed was not working when I received the car back, resulting in another lengthy repair. I had about 0.7 miles warning, a yellow check EV system lit up, then the whole dash lit up saying to pull over immediately. The ICCU was replaced by Hyundai with the "2023 spec" version.

Charging randomly stops before completion

Was driving on the highway and got a warning to check electric system, then it asked to pull over due to battery failure. The car's 12V battery died and it wouldn't turn on. Had AAA replace battery, and then drove it to the dealership. The power gave out close to the service center and the car moved really slowly. It took the service center to diagnose the issue as ICCU failure. It's been 4 weeks and there is no ETA on the part.

Started vehicle and heard a loud pop with immediate amber warning to check electrical system with 12 volt battery and EV electrical system warning lights illuminated. While driving to dealerships, vehicle slowed abruptly at Highway speed and warning message said to stop vehicle immediately. Towed to dealership with probable bad integrated charging control unit and high voltage fuse blown. Seems to be an issue with many ioniq 5s. Recall this vehicle!

The problem is in "1-pedal" mode (which Hyundai calls "i-pedal"). This is an extremely convenient mode of driving in normal operation, yielding very smooth, passenger-friendly (acceleration and) deceleration by avoiding use of the brake pedals altogether. The problem is that the 2022 Ioniq 5 will *never* activate the brake lights ("stop lamps") when decelerating in i-pedal mode, as long as I apply any pressure at all on the accelerator pedal. This gives drivers behind me no notice that I am slowing down until I'm almost completely stopped. This seems to meet current DOT standards, but ONLY because I'm not using the brakes to decelerate. If I slow down at a similar rate using brakes, the brakes lights do turn on. I recently submitted a similar complaint to Hyundai: Consumer Affairs Case#: 21492175. For a more thorough explanation & demonstration, see this video from the Technology Connections channel on YouTube — he has exactly the same model as me (and I independently verified the behavior on my car with a driver following me): https://youtu.be/U0YW7x9U5TQ My complaint is to the DOT as much as to Hyundai: safety will be improved if the illumination of brake lights ("stop lamps") is required no matter what mechanism the driver is using to slow down, for all manufacturers and models (though this will likely only apply to Electric Vehicles or hybrids). I hope this can be made retroactive, which shouldn't be a great burden as I expect this could be implemented with a software upgrade. I believe the EU has such a regulation for cars sold in Europe.

This is a rampant problem with my car as I have seen hundreds of the same reports throughout the many Ioniq 5 forums I am on. 4/22/23 my car died leaving me stranded. Apparently, the early revisions of the car I bought in March 2022 has a problem where the ICCU and inline fuse will go out over time leaving the car useless and frankly a hazard as I had to immediately pull over when the error message popped up. The issue IMHO should be a recall at this point. It has been sitting at a dealership awaiting the back ordered parts and Hyundai corporate denies that this is an ongoing problem even though I can see all the evidence widespread on the internet. Currently in the process of contacting a lawyer about a lemon law/class action lawsuit.

The 12-volt battery that controls everything in the car stopped being recharged by the 800volt battery, eventually causing the car to suddenly lose power and slow to 22 mph on the freeway. I was able to pull over 3 lanes and exit what was fortunately an uncrowded freeway. The car would not exceed 22 mph and soon stopped altogether and could not be moved. The main 800volt battery was at 56% charge, as the 12-volt battery went to 0%. The car was towed to the dealer. After inspection the dealer has confirmed that the ICCU system has failed and must be replaced, with a long back order and still no delivery date after 5 weeks. There were warning messages that appeared before the vehicle lost power, saying to check the battery electrical system. There should have been a warning that said “stop driving immediately as the electrical system is failing, and the car may stop even though the main battery is still well charged.”

Vehicle will not charge at advertised speeds. Vehicle notifies me via phone app notification that “vehicle is not charging. Please try again. Ensure the vehicle infusions is off and gear shift is in park.” The car only charges if manually adjusted in settings to charge at minimum charging speed. The car used to charge at adversities speed and no longer does ever.

The IONIQ 5, like other electric vehicles, uses regenerative breaking. Regenerative breaking can be set at level 1, 2, 3, or i-pedal mode. This determines the strength in which the car will engage regenerative breaking automatically when the position of the accelerator petal is raised above the current speed. i-pedal mode is full one-pedal driving, allowing the driver to slow to a stop without use of the break pedal at all. At level 2, 3, or i-pedal, the car is capable of decelerating at a significant rate even when the driver is still pressing down on the pedal. For example, if you consider it as a percentage and take "foot off the pedal" as 0%, and "pedal pressed as far as it can go" as 100%, a driver could be traveling at 70 mph on the highway, with the pedal pressed at around 60%. The driver could then lift the pedal to only 30%, and the regenerative breaking would then slow the car to, say, 30 mph. This deceleration can be very strong when set to a high regen level. However, the break lights do not illuminate unless the driver takes their foot completely off of the accelerator. In i-pedal mode especially, it is possible to decelerate from highway speed to a near stop in only a matter of seconds, without the break lights ever activating. Other EV manufacturers illuminate the break lights based on the cars measured deceleration when using regenerative breaking, and do not have this issue. If the driver has driven other EVs in the past and prefers the one pedal driving mode, it is likely they will not even know that their break lights are not illuminating during heavy deceleration, creating a significant danger of being rear ended when driving in heavy traffic.

This vehicle can use regenerative braking to slow fully to a stop. However, using regen to slow sharply does not activate the brake lights unless the accelerator pedal is fully released. This means that you can slow at a significant rate without alerting vehicles behind you that you are slowing. Vehicle should activate brake lights when slowing beyond a specific rate. This has been the case since vehicle delivery (3/28/22) and continues today. Occurs at all speeds.

Brake lights during I-Pedal or 1 Pedal driving modes. When under "I-Pedal" or 1 pedal driving mode brake lights do not engage unless foot is fully off the accelerator pedal. This is concerning as the vehicle can brake rather agressively with no indicition to the drivers behind you. The brake lights should illuminate when a sufficient amount of braking is occuring, not just when the accelerator is fully disengaged.

Rear brake lights do not properly come on in certain driving modes (i-pedal). The lights will only turn on if you completely release the accelerator pedal. The problem is, that you can significantly reduce your speed down to a stop without ever fully releasing the accelerator all the way.

The vehicle does not illuminate the brake lights when slowing down in ipedal and level 3 regen modes without actually pressing down the brake pedal.

Electrical system not working. The vehicle does not charge. The 12Volt battery is completely dead and vehicle does not start. Before the vehicle gone offline - it was reporting Electrical System is not charging and dead immediately. I towed the vehicle to Route 1 South, South Brunswick, NJ Hyundai Dealership on May 19th, and still in repairs. The main battery pack was showing 90% charge. The vehicle reported problem in the middle of the driving and completely slowed down to below 25Miles before and came to grinding halt. Jumpstarting the vehicle did not help.

This vehicle's brake lights do not come on when using regenerative braking. The regenerative braking can bring this car to a complete stop fairly quickly and the brake lights should come on. Several near misses of people almost rear-ending me, and a few got mad enough that I feared a road rage incident. This after only owning the car for 2 weeks.

The brake lights do not come on when slowing down in i-Pedal mode unless you completely let go of the accelerator, representing a massive safety concern. The drivers behind you do not know you are slowing down even though your deceleration is quite sharp

Brake lights do not illuminate in 1 pedal driving unless accelerator pedal is fully released. I often bring the car to a complete stop with the brake lights never illuminating until I'm nearly stopped, around 5 mph or less. I often see people ride up behind me quickly and have to slam on their brakes as they don't realize I'm slowing down so rapidly. This can be repeated at any time. I have not spoken to a dealer or the manufacturer about this, nor has it been inspected by any party. There are no warning lights, this seems to be normal behavior, many others have reported on this issue as well. This has been happening since I got the car.

The vehicle does not charge. After multiple attempts by the dealer to fix the issues, the vehicle is still in the shop. I am told it now charges on level 3 chargers (super chargers not available widely) only and does not charge on level 1 and 2. Various parts have been replaced but Hyundai corporate and the dealer has not been able to identify the issue or fix the problem after 45 days. I have filed a complaint with Hyundai and requested that the company buyback the vehicle. No response from Hyundai. I do not feel safe driving the vehicle. The vehicle is in repair with Lia Hyudai of Hartford, CT. Thank you, Bhavani 917-605-9772

While driving vehicle, car had sudden and rapid loss of power that resulted in significant decrease in speed. Vehicle was nearly in a rear-end Collision due to sudden drop in speed. The car is currently being inspected by the Hyundai dealership with reported failure of the ICCU.

As I was parking my car I got a yellow warning battery light. It said to check the electrical system. When starting the car the warning light came back on and this time the car went into "turtle mode" where the car won't go over 25 miles per hour. After that the car flashed a red warning light and said to stop driving immediately. I called for a tow and the dealership diagnosed the problem as an ICCU and Fuse problem. They informed me they have ordered the part but that it make take over a month to get the part in. The car only has 11,000 miles on it and is just over 1 year old.

On may 12 I was driving on Lake Mead hwy when I heard a pop and lost power I pulled over and checked the car and couldn't find any visible issues I was very close to home, The car went into turtle mode and was able to make it home just before everything shut down. The Hyundai dealer said its the ICCU unit and fuse. No accident or injuries. Lucky I wasn't traveling to CA. which I often do.

Likely ICCU failure incapacitated vehicle while in motion on highway. Vehicle decelerated uncontrollably and would not re-accelerate. Shortly thereafter 12v battery warning appeared and vehicle was no longer operable. Series of warning lights. “check electric vehicle system” upon car starting, “Stop vehicle and check power supply” shortly after starting drive, "12v battery very low" immediately before vehicle went completely dead.

While driving on highway I got below messages “Safety Functions are limited radar block warning message” Warning message went away after 15 minutes but then “Stop Vehicle Check Power Supply” warning message appeared and vehicle slowed on highway and stopped after 2 miles. Dealer replaced ICCU and Fuse that controls high voltage (charges 12v battery from main battery).

While driving to work on a 55 MPH road (single lane in each direction) my car faulted with warnings for me to pull over immediately and check my batteries. At the same time, the car's speed dropped quickly to a maximum of 24 MPH, which nearly caused the cars behind me to collide. After pulling over, I was able to limp into a safe area and call a tow truck. The service shop informed me that my Integrated Charge Control Unit and fuse needed to be replaced. I am still waiting for the part to come in (estimated delivery of two months). This issue is not isolated to me; others in social media groups have experienced similar issues with their MY 2022 Ioniq 5. Hyundai is quiet on how widespread the issue is, but given that there is a safety concern when one's auto suddenly slows down while on a highway, I thought it worth reporting.

A few minutes into my drive I heard a loud POP from under the rear seat and then an orange EV system warning message flashed on the display. The vehicle slowed down and I couldn’t maintain speed above about 25mph. Shortly after the first orange alert, the red “Stop vehicle and check power supply” message popped up on the screen along with an emergency warning sound. The vehicle was towed by Hyundai Roadside Assistance to the nearest certified dealer, which took 1 week to diagnose the car. They just confirmed it was an ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit) failure and would require a replacement ICCU and high voltage fuse, which are on backorder with no definitive delivery date.

When using the car in "i-Pedal" (one-pedal driving) mode — the highest brake regen setting — the car can come to a complete stop whenever I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal, without touching the brake. While in this mode, when I fully lift my foot off the accelerator, the rear brake lights illuminate as expected, however, I often slowly reduce pressure on the accelerator pedal to come gently to a stop. I've noticed that it's possible (and often the case) that I can decelerate to a full stop without the brake lights illuminating until I fully release the brake pedal (at the very last moment before I stop). This means that I can be slowing down at a pretty significant rate without any indication to the drivers behind. Conversely, when using the automatic cruise control (that keeps the car a set distance from car ahead), the brake lights seem overly active and flash on and off quite frequently, especially when going down hills (even if there is no deceleration and the car seems to be coasting). Both of these anomalies seem to aggravate other drivers following the car for different reasons, since the vehicle's intent isn't being properly communicated. The lack of expected brake lights when decelerating gently via i-Pedal mode seems potentially dangerous. I would recommend that Hyundai tune their software so that the brake lights illuminate automatically past a set threshold of deceleration/regen braking (above what would be expected if the car were simply coasting), but not requiring the driver to fully lift off the pedal, since at that point, the rate of deceleration is already uncomfortably high for typical driving.

Last night I had an update pushed to my car. I pressed ok. today while backing up i heard a slight pop. my car then said check battery . then second alert said stop vehicle and check power supply. others with this car seem to have this issue as well and is taking a long time to fix and resolve.

Started car. Heard a pop. “Check electric vehicle system” appeared on the screen. Hyundai arranged for the car to be towed to the dealer. This is likely the ICCU+Fuse failure that seems to be happening to many owners of the Ioniq 5.

On 4/24/23, without an prior warning vehicle suddenly became undrivable. Received message: "Stop vehicle and check power supply". Car could lim along < 25mph for short distances. This condition along with indifferent Hyundai roadside assist left me stranded out of state for 5 hours before telling me to find my own way to tow the car. Car is at dealership with a diagnosed ICCU/ICCU fuse issue. To date I am being told that the parts are on back order for 2-3 weeks. Based upon online posts by others with this issue, this is not a realistic expectation. To date, Hyundai has yet to offer substitute transporation, relief from monthly paments, and reimbursement of all expenses incurred as a result of the loss of this vehicle.

I was driving to the dealership due to an unusual message. I was on a main street less than 2 minutes from home when an alert came on the screen that said "critical 12v system" I believe. The screen went off shortly after so I was unable to fully capture it. Within 20' the car stopped itself on the road and shut off. All systems were offline with a total power loss. I could not turn my hazards on, the wheels were locked and I was unable to move the car. I had to stand outside my car to alert oncoming traffic to avoid me. Had I been on the highway when this happened I feel it could have turned deadly quickly, and would have been far worse at night It has been confirmed that the ICCU and high voltage fuse had failed. There are many other owners online speaking of the same problem. The error prior to this reported in the car was "check electric vehicle system." No extended details available, and the online app that shows car codes said "all systems normal" and still does even though the car is entirely dead.

12 volt battery not recharging from the main EV 77kw battery. This makes it so that car systems cannot start that started late March and went into the dealer April 14,2023, after it happened a dozen or so times.

Driving the car on the highway, EV warning light came on dash. Car went into turtle mode for approximately 5 miles. Then the dash board changed to shut car down now. Car would not charge at home. Had to tow it to the dealership. Car has now been at the dealership waiting for parts for 5 weeks. ICCU and a fuse need to be replaced.

Suddenly whilst driving, I heard a soft "pop" and emergency alert sound and message were displayed. Car lost almost all power, but was able to move forward at 12mph to park in a safe place. Car became fully inoperable and required a flatbed tow to dealership. Was diagnosed as an ICCU problem (associated with both 12v battery failure and possible bluetooth related battery drain). Car has been in shop for 6 weeks, waiting on parts. No ETA from Hyundai. If this had occurred 3 minutes later I would have been driving at high speed on the interstate in morning commute traffic. Prior to the "pop" there was no warnings or errors or problems - car worked perfectly.

We've owned the car since new, just over one year. The car was performing well one day and my wife went to her evening work. When she returned to her car around 6pm, the car wouldn't respond to the key fob and the door wouldn't open. She was able to open it with a key, but the car wouldn't start. It's a fully electric car and NOTHING lit up or made a sound. The traction battery had ample charge, but she called Hyundai and the car needed a "jump" from a repair vehicle that was called out, much like an ICE car needs the occasional jump...we assumed an interior light was left on, but the car's app didn't inform either of us of any issue prior to this...the same exact scenario repeated itself about one week later and we had the car jumped again and brought to our dealer, Burns Hyundai in Marlton, NJ. They determined that "nothing was wrong" which made no sense to me. My wife picked up the car and approximately one week later, the exact same thing happened again. This time we dropped the car off at the dealer where it's been for nearly one month. With their customer service lacking and information not forthcoming, I had to go to the dealer myself to get some answers. It seems the computer was telling then some codes were coming through about the battery, but nothing more. It didn't need replacing and they couldn't replicate the problem over a period of weeks...There are MANY online reports of this car having 12V battery and ICCU issues. Our dealer has several Ioniq5s awaiting ICCU replacement for the same problem as my car, but they "can't get the part from Hyundai". While our car at times won't start, they aren't seeing that in their shop now, awaiting repairs on cars that apparently die when driving also with 12v battery problems. Our car is a lemon and we intend to retain counsel to assist us in its repair. https://www.theautopian.com/why-everyones-favorite-electric-car-keeps-stranding-its-owners/?fbclid=IwAR3yNgwVKtaGhGPd7HBz79tOV-UI1myLdmyrwDzcOJZfLarsG80b_6NJLpk

Windshields in the vehicle keep breaking with little to no reason. In 6 months of ownership we have fully replaced 3 windshields. Windshields provide a line of protection for the driver and passengers when the vehicle is being operated. Continuous breaking of a windshield indicates a bigger safety issue with the manufacturing of the car/glass. In one instance there was an audible screeching sound and the glass suddenly cracked for no reason. The windshield has been replaced and safety system recalibrated 2 times in 7 thousand miles ownership with the 3 appointment scheduled for completion in a week.

Pulled out of my driveway and halfway down the street, warning message pops up on display, "Check electric vehicle system". Turned down another street to head back home and receive another warning with audible beeping "Stop vehicle and check power supply". Dealership says its a known issue and to not drive it. Must be safety related or driving it wouldn't be a problem.

On March/17/2023 @24962 miles Integrated Charge Control Unit failure + 30 AMP Fuse. Hyundai Corporate said parts back order May---June/2023 time frame. 3 inch orange circle came up on my dash with red triangle saying PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY! I was two blocks from dealership and with no problems drive to the service advisor where it died in front of them. Service advisor guessed that the pop I heard just before the circle appeared was the fuse and I drove in on the 12volt battery. I am in the Buy Back process with Hyundai Corporate Case#21170992

The car was driving fine, and an error popped up indicating to pull over and check battery. As I am going to pull over a red flashing indicator pops up saying “pull over and check battery”. As I start to pull over the car speed drops to 25 miles per hour and fully dies as I make it to the side of the road.

The car displayed an unforeseen warning and shut down in the middle of traffic around 720am, February 2nd 2023. Shut down vehicle and restarted, battery light came on along with other warnings. Moved vehicle to adjacent parking lot and towed to Hyundai dealership same day and have not been given a definitive answer nor an expected repair time, we’re in the 9th week….still no answers.

The 12v battery died because the electric battery drained it. Ultimately, the electric battery is dead on a 1 year old car and needs replacement. The night before the failure, the car had 145 miles and drained the battery to 83 miles. Prior to that and an ongoing complaint to the dealership from November until this point, the range went from 245 miles per charge to 190 to 219 miles per charge. The 219 was after a system update in January.

Hi! My vehicle went under a recall repair last month. Once completed, the acceleration significantly decreased in the ECO drive train mode. The other modes are working as before. I have been advised that this recall service was required by the NTSB. There are reports of this occurring on credible websites as well. I did report it to Hyundai, they didn't believe me. So, I am reporting this to you. Please fix my car!

After a few minutes of driving, the vehicle presented a warning "Check Electric Vehicle System" and then got really slow. We were able to limp back home, where it is now parked. Hyundai has not had availability to diagnose the issue.

The car SHUT OFF while driving cause of a 12v battery issue. imagine turning onto a major road just for this to happen. Car wouldn't go above 25mph and close to it's death it wouldn't go above 12 then just STOPPED. I couldnt lock it, I couldnt turn it on. I couldnt even move it from drive to park. How is this safe?!

Was in the middle of driving when a loud alert sounded and the dashboard showed the error "Stop vehicle and check power supply". The car otherwise behaved normally. I pulled into a parking log, looked at the only thing I knew how to look at (12v battery), confirmed it was still plugged in, and turned the car back on. The error was still there, but now the car wouldn't go over 26mph. I limped home, called a tow truck to take it to the nearest Hyundai that services electric vehicles, and they told me they'd have to replace the ICCU, which is backordered.

When driving on the interstate the collision avoidance system will falsely trigger around 5% of the times going under overpasses or road signs. The vehicle rapidly decelerates using regenerative braking.

I was driving to my parents house when suddenly a message popped up on my driver screen saying that the electrical system has a problem. Driving a little more to reach my parents house and it starts saying to stop and check power supply. We ended up making it to my parents house and decided that it was unsafe to drive anymore with the error message going off. I called a tow truck to tow it back to our dealership in Fremont. When the tow came, I thought we could drive it on the bed but turns out the vehicle wouldn't start. We jumped the 12V battery and found that we could put it in neutral and somewhat drive it until it drained the external battery used to jump the 12V battery. With the car stuck halfway on the bed, we managed to put it in neutral and pull the car up using the tow's harness. Took it to the dealer and after a few days they said a fuse blew and that something called the ICCU was bad and needed to be replaced.

Charging with level 2 / 240 vac charger stops frequently after 5 months of ownership. Car will not complete charge. Seeing on message boards that this is common problem with this model.

Car is 13 months old, 13,xxx miles. Driving car at 60mph we heard a bang from the rear of the car and lost power almost immediately. Car displayed warning "Check Electrical Vehicle System." We shut it off, then restarted in limp home mode, warning now said "Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply." We then turned off the heater and the car got to 55MPH and I could get the 5 miles back to home. The 12 volt batter no longer charges, the car will not accept a Level 2 charge. IT was towed to Hyundai for repairs. Research suggests that the Integrated Charge Circuit Unit (ICCU) and the accompanying 450V/40 AMP fuse are both bad.

The ioniq 5 has a one pedal driving mode, where the car will come to a complete stop without needing to press the brake pedal, similar to other EV's. In this mode, the gas pedal operates differently then in a conventional car - pressing the pedal approximately 1/3 of the way down represents neutral, where the car coasts. Pressing the pedal less then that - between 1/3 and not pressing it at all, applies braking power to the car, either through regenerative braking or the application of the physical brakes. The issue is, the brake lights on the rear of the vehicle do not light up when the gas pedal is depressed any amount. If you press the gas pedal as lightly as possible, the car will brake a fair amount but there is no warning to driver's behind that you are decelerating. I have twice been almost rear-ended, both times while slowing down in one pedal mode. I suspect the lack of brake lights until you take your foot fully off the gas pedal is a contributing factor. Other Ioniq 5 users have experienced the same issue.

We were driving vehicle on a neighborhood street with a speed limit of 45 miles per hour. When we got a "High voltage fault warning" from the car. I continued to drive about 10 second more and got a second warning. A different series of warnings appeared the last one being "please pull over and check your electrical system". We pulled into a neighborhood street, turned off the car. We decided to try to make it home which was less than 1/2 mile. Once I restarted the car, both messages cycled through the dashboard. Then the car lost the ability to accelerate past 25 miles per hour, no matter how much I stepped on the throttle.

I was doing a 3-point turn in the driveway, and heard a pop sound from under the rear seats. A warning light came on in the dash, after a little bit of time the warning changed into an error that stated pull the car over and do not drive. OBD sensor reported codes P1A90 and P0C17. Car also went into "turtle" mode preventing it from being driven normally. Had it towed to the dealership, but took 2 weeks for them to inspect it. Once they got to it, they quickly determined it was a blown high-voltage fuse, and a fault in the ICCU (integrated charging control unit). Was told there is a national backorder on the ICCU and no ETA on delivery. I was also told I am one of three Ioniq 5s waiting for a new ICCU. I've seen many reports online of many Ioniq 5s having this same issue, and very long wait times for ICCU replacements.

Heard a "pop" sound and the car shortly after said "Check EV system." A few minutes later the car beeped loudly said "Stop vehicle and check power supply." A ODB scanner reported a P1A9096 code. This issue makes the vehicle inoperable with little warning.

The car suddenly cut speed to 20mph while traveling at around 40mph. No matter how hard I pressed on the accelerator, it did not go over over 20mph. The dashboard also said speed limited to 20mph. I had to pull over on the side of the road. Turn off the ignition. Then turned it back on. Then the car resumed to operate as normal. Luckily there were no other cars around so I could safely pull over. This could had been disastrous if it cuts speed again when I’m driving at 65mph on a busy freeway. I feel unsafe operating this vehicle because I’m afraid this will happen again in the near future.

The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated while driving 59 MPH, a warning message advising to stop the vehicle due to low battery was displayed; however, the main battery was fully charged. The instrument panel lights turned off and the vehicle decelerated to 23 MPH. The contact veered to the right lane. While driving to the dealer, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, where the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) assist, and the high voltage fuse were upgraded. Additionally, the battery was replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and remained at the dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact they could not provide vehicle rental assistance because the dealer was unwilling to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 28,000.

When charging the vehicle using a level 2 charger, the charging system will often trip for unknown reasons. This can happen after 1 hour or after many hours of charging. If using specific chargers, the charging will restart after a 10 second delay and oftentimes the car will continue to trip and start recharging multiple times. This can lead to heating up of the charging cord and potentially tripping the main breaker feeding the charger. In the car you can change the charging current from maximum to reduced to minimum. The issue appears to happen mostly on maximum and reduced charge, but has not happened on minimum yet. The issue is reproducible on multiple level 2 chargers and appears to be a common issue across numerous other owners. I have attempted to have the dealership investigate, but they are too new and or ignorant to electric vehicles that they won't take my advice on how to reproduce the issue and thus have not been any help. This issue is not related to DC charging which leads me to believe it's either electrical pin related or an issue with the AC to DC converter on the car. Besides, not getting the full use of the car I paid for, this issue can leave a user stranded if the charger fails to charge the car when expected, but also could be a potential fire hazard with the excessive heating of the charging module and associated charging cords. In the attached photos you can see how often the car charging will trip as I get a notification in my phone app each time it stops charging. If you're inside the car watching the dashboard when this happens, it will flash check EV system very briefly while it trips and restarts. No actual codes are thrown though.

I got the new update for my car from dealership, didn't know it effect ego mode, it's really lagging any power, need push accelerator all the way down to get any power, danger for left turn, please look into this thanks.

On February 6, 2023 at approximately 9:50 a.m. I was driving my Hyundai Ioniq 5 SEL northbound on CA Highway 135, Santa Maria, when I heard a loud pop coming from my car. Within a few seconds my car lost speed rapidly, from 55 mph to 25 then a second later 22 mph . I tried to accelerate - there was no response - the car maintained the 22 mph. A message appeared on the right side of the dash board in an orange circle “check vehicle system” with a small upside down triangle with letters EV also inside this circle and a “small orange battery” picture showed on the left. I drove the car onto the shoulder of the road and with my hazard lights blinking, drove a half block making a right hand turn onto Miller Street to get off the Highway. I entered CHC Medical Building’s parking lot. Immediately upon entering the parking lot, my car stopped dead, before I had a chance to pull into a parking space. My car was now blocking cars coming in and out of the parking lot. I called Roadside Assistance and reported the above, the time was approximately 10:19 a.m. A tow truck (AAA) was requested by Roadside Assistance. After my conversation with Roadside Assistance, I turned the car on again and got power briefly - I moved the car into a stall space and waited. My car arrived at the Hyundai SLO dealership shortly before noon. The ICCU and fuse failed, and replacements have been ordered but the ETA is unknown Abrupt loss of speed was very unsafe

The car randomly drains the 12v battery. Twice it wouldn’t turn on when I had appointments to go to. The dealership service department has had my car since 10/27/22. They’ve replaced a bunch of parts & can’t fix the issue. I would occasionally get battery discharge warning messages when starting the car.

I was driving on the highway using advanced highway assist and the car became completely unresponsive. I was traveling 75mph on a major highway with a semi behind me and one to my right in the slow lane. The car stopped accelerating and I was unable to resume driving. I was forced to coast to a stop on the side of the highway. I had my daughter with me and were I not able to safely maneuver between the semi trucks, we could have been killed or seriosuly injured in a high speed crash.

The car started turning to the right on the freeway. Suddenly, alarm started going off and acceleration diminished.

Hyundai describes the lack on rear window wiper on this hatchback/suv as handled by the 'air wiper' the include air ducts allow for. The problem is that this 'air wiper' only works if it is actually actively raining AND you are driving at highway speeds. At any other time the rear window is almost always dirty and has no way of being cleaned while driving the car. One would need to pull over to a gas station to clean the window if on the road. Not sure you have a resolution section but the resolution would be to require Hyundai to install a rear wiper with wiper fluid mechanism.

The car randomly stops charging when plugged into either of my Level 2 home Juicebox 40 chargers before it reaches capacity, generally after adding another 4-8% to the battery. It was impossible for me to fully charge the car without plugging it in multiple times. The service people including the EV specialist said they hadn’t heard of this problem, and it was probably due to my charging unit at home. See the attached service and repair invoice . This was not true It is apparently a well-known defect in the Hyundai and Genesis cars using this platform and Hyundai is aware of the issue. it is not a problem with my charger. It happens whether it is hot or cold and generally when it is cooler as we only charge the car at night. Please note the following: 1.Saying this was a unique isolated problem was NOT accurate as this is a problem with many Hyundai and Genesis cars on this battery/charging platform. The Hyundai forums are full of these accounts, and they occur with all different types of chargers. For instance, see: a.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3eh0BTSdng b.https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/comments/wrilke/ioniq_5_stops_charging_randomly_on_level_2_any/ c.https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/charging-issues.42357/ d.https://www.kiaevforums.com/threads/charging-problem-automatically-stops-charging-at-home-the-charging-for-ev6-failed-please-check-vehicle.3659/page-12 3.The Ioniq 5 charges fine on level 3 superchargers 4.I spoke to Juicebox and they said other Ioniq 5 owners have reported the same problem in fact before I even mentioned the car I had, when I mentioned the problems, the technical advisor said, “Do you have an Ioniq 5?” He showed me downloaded graphs that show that the Ioniq 5 halts charges prior to being fully charged even though the charger is delivering power to the car. 5. I called Hyundai and they said they would look into this, but other people have received the same response, but nothing has been done

I parked the car end visited a store. Upon turning the car back on, the car freaked out and indicated that I needed to "Stop vehicle and check brake system." At the same time, the check engine light illuminated and the car entered limp home mode. CEL codes C164286 & C238001 appeared. The next day I brought the car to a Hyundai dealer who "fixed" the issue by removing a component that is unrelated to the braking and security systems and the car became drivable again for ~300 miles. I then went on two business trips and returned home. I drove the car and it again experienced the same error upon turning the car on. The braking system still functioned, but all electronic features were disabled by the car and braking involved a lot of force on the brake pedal to get the car to stop. For as long as I've owned the car, it has (infrequently) flashed the "Check automatic lane change system" when the car is turned on but the error goes away and doesn't return for weeks to months. The car is now back with the dealer who "fixed" the issue originally but their EV tech isn't always there to look at cars, even though the issue is not necessarily EV related as all cars (should) have brakes. Original incident: 9/8/2022, Second Occurrence: 9/30/2022

When the vehicle is parked and the trunk is opened, some percentage of the time the trunk does not remain in the open position and immediately closes. If the trunk is then opened additional times it generally remains opened. When the trunk unexpectedly closes the trunk object detection does not work and applies a great deal of downforce. When the trunk finally stops trying to close it remains in a locked position between open and close, it does not reopen. Mine and others safety is at risk as the trunk can cause bodily injury resulting from the trunk unintended closing. This issue happens around 50% of the time after the trunk is commanded to open. Two dealerships have been unable to reproduce this issue, but neither has tried multiple times, nor have they driven the vehicle to get the error/bug to reoccur. There are no warning or errors that this issue is going to occur. The only warming occurs three seconds after the trunk fully opens, the trunk closing audible rings. This error has persisted since shortly after first purchasing the vehicle.

When my IONIQ5 slowly starts and stops while the brake pedal engages or disengages, a noise, something like "click," comes from the rear passenger wheel house. Then, the brakes feel somewhat slippery. I think this has something to do with a transition between the regen brake and the traditional brake. The noise comes up every time I drive. Sometimes, I feel very unsafe because I am worried that the brake system fails.

The contact's father owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated that as her father attempted to place the vehicle into reverse(R) while in park(P), the gear shifter failed to operate as needed. As her father exited the vehicle with the gear shifter in the park(P)position, the vehicle accelerated on its own into his garage. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact's father was not injured and a police report was not filed. The garage door and pillar were damaged, as well as, the vehicle's driver-side door. The vehicle was initially towed to the dealer where the vehicle was inspected for the failure. The inspection found no defect with the vehicle and claimed that the failure was a result of human error. The dealer then drove the vehicle to a nearby independent collision center where the vehicle was repaired. Nearly two months after the repair, the contact stated that while in the vehicle with her father, the vehicle failed to move out of the reverse(R) position after backing out of the driveway. The contact stated the gear shifter eventually moved after multiple attempts and restarts. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact later informed her that there was a recall on the vehicle for a shift control unit update(recall number unknown). The contact was instructed to bring the vehicle to the dealer to have the update performed. The contact notified the manufacturer about the failure and was given a case number. The vehicle was repaired. The failure mileage was 494. The contact stated that the vehicle accelerated into the door of the garage. Also, Hyundai eventually reimbursed the contact for the costs of repairs.

Involved in a minor collision. Rear ended another car accelerating from a stop light (low speed). Forward collision warning did not activate. Auto braking did not activate. No airbag deployed.

Vehicle parked and unattended. Shifter control unit failed and vehicle rolled away. Vehicle front damage.

The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated while attempting to enter the vehicle, the door failed to unlock. The contact was unable to unlock the door with the key fob but was able to unlock the door manually using the spare key. The contact stated that the main battery was not charged fully. The vehicle was not diagnosed. The manufacturer was contacted and a complaint was filed. The failure mileage was 889.

The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 22V324000 (Parking Brake). The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked in a parking garage, the vehicle rolled away and crashed into a wall, causing damage to the front end. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 700.

The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5. The contact stated while driving at 80 MPH the contact was pressing on the brakes while approaching a red light. The contact stated the vehicle would not stop, he pulled on the hand emergency brakes to stop the vehicle but the vehicle would not stop causing the vehicle to rear ended the vehicle in front of him and causing that vehicle to lose control and hit another vehicle. The contact was not injured and he was unsure if anyone else was injured. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where the vehicle was diagnosed and the contact is unsure of the diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 11,200.

Following DC fast charging, the deadfront on the charging pin became dislodged and is missing exposing the conductive part of the pin to possible electrical shock to the operator.

Following DC fast charging, I found the plastic cap (dead front) on pin #7 became dislodged and is missing. This missing component could expose the operator of the vehicle to potentially harmful electrical current when charging.

We just purchased this vehicle and I found this issue. We have not had any accident. This is just an professional OBSERVATION about a potential issue. The rear carpet mat has a slick and very smooth rubber underside. This factory carpet liner sits on top of the factory carpet. With the rear fold down seats in the upright position, there is no problem but the liner does slide easily around as there is no way to attach it to the regular carpet. I asked the dealer who dosen't seem to be interested in helping with any other issues including this and they suggested that I go to Walmart and buy a stip of velcro and stick it down. Paying over $58,000.00 for a car, I'm not about to do this as it is something that should have been caught in the design process. The problem will be when the rear seats are in the down position and someone puts a heavy object like a cooler filled with ice and drinks or a heavy tool box on the back area of the carpet liner. If you have to apply the brakes quickly or get into a accident, the article will be shooting forward on the liner very quickly and possibly striking the driver or passenger seat back or possibly in the back of their heads. The object could also move into the front seat area. Hitting the seat back or driver with this added force and or weight will be just more dangerous added that the air bags could possibly be going off. It would be like getting hit 3 times in a accident. First by another vehicle, 2nd with the air bags and 3rd from behind with whatever you put in the vehicle rear.

I started my car up right after charging on a rainy day at 2500 miles exactly and got 5 warnings. Check battery, lane assist warning, abs warning, parking brake warning, forward collision warning and bling spot collision avoidance warning lights were on. More or less all these systems triggered a fault. I tried turning it off and on to no luck. As I drove to the dealer my breaks became steadily lighter and lighter with the manual break even clicking at times. My breaking distance was doubled by the time that i got there. Other owners are seeing the same issue. It sounds quite similar to the Kona Electric recall (20V-748). My car is unsafe to drive.